Burgundy 2023 Vintage and Harvest Report

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The Côte d’Or enjoyed a particularly mild winter, especially at the start of the year, when there was spring-like weather in January. This was also a very dry winter, with a rainfall deficit of more than 80% relative to the norm over the past 30 years in February.

March overall temperatures remained rather mild, and the absence of water delayed the start of the vegetative growth cycle. April was cooler, with several late frosts making their presence felt in susceptible areas, but the fact that budbreak for both ofour varieties was delayed until mid-April helped to protect the tender buds from any damage. During the latter half of the
month, temperatures began to climb, and the vines began to grow vigorously.
The growth cycle accelerated in May thanks to the warm temperatures that prevailed mid-month, and as has become the norm these days, our teams had a lot of work to do in a very short period of time: bud-rubbing, the protection of the flowers to come, then topping, trimming and raising the canopy.

The weather in June was equally sunny, with a lack of rainfall that continued right through to flowering. Flowering was relatively early, with the first signs of it seen at the end of May in the early-flowering Chardonnay vineyards
of Bressandes and Puligny. Several days later, at the start of June, we saw flowering begin in the Pinot vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.

The above chart provided by BIVB shows how hot the 2023 was and at same levels of 2022 vintage, but average rainfall and not as humid with very little heat spikes, mostly at harvest time.

Towards the end of June and the beginning of July a few thunderstorms helped to top up the water levels. They were accompanied by localised hailstorms, but the impact of these was limited, as were consequences for potential yields. Veraison began during the first few days of July, and picking teams prepared themselves to begin picking towards the end of August.

The grapes ripened in warm, sunny conditions, allowing a steady build-up of sugar. August, punctuated by rainy spells, enabled the harvest capacity to be maintained, before ending with unseasonably high temperatures and sunshine. For this reason, many winegrowers decide to pick at night or in the early hours of the morning. This preserves the freshness of the grapes and the quality of the vintage.

Harvesting began with the Crémant de Bourgogne from the Mâconnais (Lugny) on August 25, quickly followed by the rest of Bourgogne. The still white wines were harvested first, in the following week, particularly in early-ripening plots. Then the Pinot Noir grapes were picked, around the second week of September. The plentiful and beautiful bunches were able to take advantage of the late summer sunshine to perfect their ripeness.
The harvest moved upwards from the south to the north of Bourgogne, finishing at the end of September in Chablis and the Hautes Côtes.

The Chardonnay and Aligoté grapes were magnificent. More attention was paid to the Pinot Noir bunches, which are more sensitive to heat. They needed to be carefully sorted both in the vineyard and before going into the cellar to remove any scorched or shrivelled berries and keep only the best.
Once the cellar doors were closed, the vinification process began. A first glimpse of this vintage will be available at the Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction on November 19, when journalists and those in the wine industry will be able to taste the first samples of this vintage and look ahead to what’s to come!

In red wine vinification, choices on the inclusion of stems were variable. Several producers who sometimes use them did not do so at all in 2023, either for reasons of space, or because they preferred not to for stylistic reasons, or because acidity levels were already low and the use of stems tends to increase pH readings.

Perhaps the most remarkable thing about the 2023 vintage was the volume of fruit produced. According to the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) in Beaune, 2023 was the largest harvest in Burgundy’s history with a total of 1.9 million hectolitres (50 million US gallons). Figures provided by the BIVB on harvested volumes illustrate well nature’s bounty, even after the generous 2022 vintage and particularly in terms of the five-year averages.

Vineyards in Burgundy. Credit: Getty Images

The Red Wines

The red wines of 2023 are being praised for their aromatic purity and harmonious structure. They showcase a delightful balance of ripe, red-fruit flavors and vibrant acidity, with tannins that are refined and approachable. These reds are being compared to vintages like 2017 but with added depth and concentration, offering both early drinking pleasure and the potential for aging.

The White Wines

The white wines from this vintage reflect the favorable growing conditions, with a richness and precision that make them stand out. They are characterized by bright citrus and orchard fruit flavors, balanced by a backbone of acidity and minerality. The texture is silky and layered, with an excellent balance of ripeness and freshness that points to long-term potential in the cellar.

What to Expect

In summary, Burgundy’s 2023 vintage offers wines that embody the region’s terroir with clarity and elegance. Both reds and whites promise to delight wine lovers with their immediate charm and ability to age gracefully, marking the vintage as a standout in recent years. The yields were large than average, but for the most part, the majority of producer managed to keep high quality.

The late summer heat challenge to keep acidity high with overall higher pH. Fruit is generally plump and in an approachable style and in some cases lacks the concentration of the very top vintages. Yet, there are beautiful wines for early drinking with less longer aging capacity.

Jasper Morris MW reports “As a general rule of thumb, 2023 continues the medium-bodied, fresh, red-fruit character witnessed in 2022 in contrast to the rich, powerful wines resulting from the hot, sunny 2019 and 2020 summers. Several vignerons dared a comparison with 2017.”