Domaine des Comtes Lafon: A Legacy of Excellence in Burgundy

Nestled in the heart of Meursault, Domaine des Comtes Lafon stands as a beacon of Burgundian winemaking excellence. Established in the late 19th century, the estate’s foundation was laid when Jules Lafon, a successful lawyer, married Marie Boch, inheriting prime vineyard parcels in Meursault and Volnay. Jules’ vision and acquisitions, including plots in the esteemed Montrachet, set the stage for a legacy that would endure for generations.

The mid-20th century saw the estate’s vineyards leased to sharecroppers, a common practice at the time. However, the family’s commitment to quality remained unwavering. In 1956, René Lafon began reclaiming the vineyards, and by 1961, the domaine started bottling its own wines, marking a new chapter in its history.

Dominique Lafon, René’s son, took the reins in the 1980s, ushering in a renaissance for the estate. With a passion for authenticity and a respect for terroir, Dominique transitioned the vineyards to organic farming in the early 1990s and fully embraced biodynamic practices by 1998. His meticulous approach in both vineyard and cellar has solidified the domaine’s reputation for producing wines of purity, balance, and depth.

One of the estate’s crown jewels is the Clos de la Barre, a monopole vineyard in Meursault. Encircled by a stone wall, this 2.12-hectare plot yields wines that epitomize the elegance and minerality characteristic of Meursault, offering a harmonious blend of richness and finesse.

Expanding his vision beyond the Côte de Beaune, Dominique established Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon in 1999, focusing on the Mâconnais region. Here, he applies the same rigorous standards to vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé and Milly-Lamartine. The Pouilly-Fuissé wines are noted for their vibrant acidity and expressive fruit, while the Milly-Lamartine bottlings offer a delightful balance of freshness and complexity, showcasing the potential of southern Burgundy terroirs.

Today, Domaine des Comtes Lafon continues to be a family-run estate, with Dominique’s daughter, Léa, and nephew, Pierre, joining the helm. Their commitment ensures that the domaine’s legacy of excellence and innovation endures, offering wine enthusiasts bottles that capture the essence of Burgundy’s storied landscapes.

Over the years, certain vintages and bottlings from Domaine des Comtes Lafon have risen to legendary status among critics and collectors alike. The Meursault Perrières Premier Cru, often considered the jewel in the estate’s crown, has earned exceptional scores in standout years such as 1999, 2002, 2010, 2014, and 2017, consistently rivaling grand crus for depth, aging potential, and sheer finesse. The Montrachet Grand Cru, produced in minute quantities, is nearly mythical in reputation, with vintages like 2005 and 2010 commanding near-perfect scores and auction prices to match.

Among the more accessible but still highly acclaimed wines, Meursault Charmes and Clos de la Barre often deliver outstanding value within the Lafon lineup. These wines regularly earn critical praise for their texture and clarity, with recent vintages like 2019 and 2020 reflecting a balance between ripeness and mineral tension. From the southern holdings, the Héritiers du Comte Lafon Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reyssié has become a breakout success, with the 2020 and 2022 releases drawing attention for their layered citrus, chalky grip, and precision—proof that Lafon’s exacting standards shine just as brightly in the Mâconnais.